The Sebastien Riffault Sancerre Skeveldra 2013 is made from Sauvignon Blanc growing on 12 hectares near Sury-en-Vaux. Those hectares not only produce grapes, but also house an array of flowers and grasses with the goal of increasing the biodiversity of his land, and invite good insects over for a snack. Sebastien plows his vineyards with a horse and is certified organic and incorporates biodynamic practices into his whole program. He lets the grapes hang in the vineyard way later than his neighbors, encouraging botrytis rather than avoiding it. Lastly, he ferments in large, old barrels with wild yeasts and zero SO2 is added to the final product. All said, his wines have little in common with textbook Sancerre, which is fine with us. This is a different vinous picture of Sauvignon Blanc, a delicious and complex example of what can be achieved when handled with love and horses.
Tasting note: What a gorgeous Sauvignon Blanc. The color of this wine is amber, reminding me of an old Jura wine. Deliberate oxidation? Not sure, but probably helped the color move in this direction. Aromas of black pepper, orange peel, lemons, almonds, nutmeg, salt, sourdough, and campfire. Tangy lemon, orange, and almond flavors with medium+ acid and a medium body. In that order, the fruit is secondary. There is a sense of very low tannins, which adds complexity and character. This will either give you a thrill or make you regret your decision. Thrilled we be.
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